Textile fabric consisting of a plurality of interwoven layers



April 2, 1940.

F. HAN FF El 'AI:

TEXTILE FABRIC CONSISTING 01-" A PLURAQ-ITY 0F INTBRWOVEN L'AYERS F1104 June 4, 1937 YINVENTOR Felrz /7/A NFF c/UA lL/ PE/MA NN.

ATTORNEY sin Patented Apr. 2, 1940 UNITED, STATES PATENT OFFICE TEXTILE FABRIG CONSISTING OF A PLU- RALITY F INTERWQVEN LAYERS Fritz Hanfl', Berlin-Wilmersdori', and Julius Beimann, Wuppertal-Elberteld, Germany, assignors, by mesne assignments, to Trubenizing, Process Corporation, New York, -N. Y., a corporation of New York Application June 4, 1937, Serial No. 146,354 In Germany June 9, 1936 3 Claims. (01. 139-414) crate, particularly after prolonged use, and ac-'- cordingly they are generally treated with starch 18 'or' other stiffening agents.

It has furthermore been proposed to provide composite fabrics for the manufacture of semistiff articles of wearing apparel whichcomposite fabrics consist of a plurality of plies of fabric,

50* one or more of which contain cellulose derivatives or similar binding substances, and wherein the stiffening is obtained, not by interweaving the layers, but by subjecting them to the action of an organic solvent and subsequent pressure g with heat to unite the layers and evaporate the solvent.

The present invention relates to the first mentioned type of fabrics, namely multiple weave fabrics, wherein either a warp or several weft layers or several warps and several weft layers are interwoven during the weaving process in known manner.

In the textile fabric according to the inve tion, consisting of a plurality of interwoven lay- 35 ers (multiple weave fabric) threads disposed within the .fabric and not appearing on the surface consists of binding substances soluble'in organic solvent, or contains such substances.

w The threads consisting of binding substances may be woven into the layers of fabric as warp thread or as weft threads, or also as part of the warp or weft threads.

In order to give to the improved textile fabric 6 a permanently elastic stiffness, it is treated with a solvent for the said binding substance and is then subjected to the action of heat and pressure. i

A textile fabric thus treated has greater elas- 50 ticity than the multiple weave fabric mentioned 'above, since owing to the dissolution of the threads of binding substance and their subsequent re-hardening, in conjunction with the resulting adhesive connection with the adjacent 55 threads of the fabric, it is stiffened from inside certain of the permanently and its stiffness is not lost by washing. I Wearing apparel made of this fabric does not lose this stiffness even after long wear and repeated washing and therefore does not require to be" treated with 'starch" or other j stiffening 6 agents. v

The improved textile fabric may be used with advantage for the manufacture of articles permeable to air and moisture, particularly semi-stiff collars. It is advisable to maintain the spacing 10 of'the threads of the binding substance at such value and to employ them in such numbers that after treatment with the solvent interstices of such size are left thatfree passage of air and moisture is ensured. It has been found, for example, that a fabric, one-third of the warp threads of which consist of binding substance, will allow air and moisture to pass through very satisfactorily. The quantity of the binding sub-.

stance employed does not depend solely upon the number of the threads consisting of binding substance, but also upon the thickness of the, individual threads.

For example, a textile fabric which will allow the free passage of air and moisture is obtained if-in the manufacture 60 threads of 60/2 cotton and cellulose acetate-threads of 200 denier are employed per cm. in the direction of the warp and 44' threads of 16/1 cotton per cm.'

in the direction of the weft. 30'

It has already been proposed to weave threads of cellulose derivative into a simple fabric consisting of one warp and one weft only and to treat the finished fabric with solvents. Apart from the fact that the object of this was to pro-- duce a waterproof fabric, in these fabrics the threads of cellulose derivative were exposed on the outer sides of the fabric, so that after the treatment with the solvent the threads to be dissolved smothered the whole: surface. Such a 40 fabric was therefore unsuitable for the manufacture of wearing apparel.

As binding .substances for the improved textile fabric such substances may be employed, which may be rendered temporarily adhesive by means of organic solvents or swelling agents,

such' as acetone, methyl alcohol, butyl acetate,

factured in various ways.

aforesaid binding substances.

thereof possess to a great extent'the properties of natural textile fibres, i. e-., they are washable and ironable, elastic and so forth. It hasbeen found that cellulose derivatives, such as for example cellulose acetate, are particularly suitable for the.

manufacture of the textile material according to the invention. Wearing apparel or'parts' thereof made of the'new textile fabric may be washed in the usual way and after ironing they are again stiif, without treatment with starch being necessary. Y

The-improvedntextile fabric may be manu- For example, it is possible to provide a fabric having a warp layer and two weft layers with additional warp and weft threads consisting ofor containing the having a pluralityof warp and weft layers, 1. e., consisting of two or more interwoven layers of fabric, may be provided with additional warp and weft threads consisting of or containingbinding substances. The important point is that the layers of fabric disposed on the outer side do not contain binding substance in the warp or weft. The binding substances, must be so dis osed between the u er andlower sides p pp ment with organic solvents.

of the fabric that they shall not appear on the surface after dissolution and shall not become' ample collars, manufactured thereof permanent- I ly retain their shape, without starch or other stiffening agents being applied thereto.

Weft or warp threads which do not consist wholly of binding substanceabut merely'c'ontain them, may be made for example of a material' free of binding substance, such as cotton, artificially spun fibres, artificial silk and the like and wound with threads consisting of the bind- I ing substances in question. The threads of material free of binding substances may also be impregnated with the binding substance, for exkind which is not soluble inorganic solvents, as,

is for example acetate silk.

Furthermore, it hasbeen found that the proved textile material is particularly suitablefor the manufacture of white wearing apparel.

It is very comfortable to wear and even when perspiration penetrates it it does not become soft and unsightly.

The invention will be more particularly described with reference to the accompanying drawing, and it is to be particularly understood that these illustrate embodiments merely by way of example and explanation.

Figure 1 is a diagrammatic sectional view of a textile fabric, wherein threads of binding substance are woven into the fabric as warp threads;

Figure 2 is a cross section of a fabric, where-- in the threads of binding agent form weft threads.

Again, a fabric Figure 3'is a diagrammatic cross section of a collar made of .the improved textile fabric.

Figure 4 is a similar-view of an alternative construction of collar.

In Figure 1 the threads forming the basic warps of the fabric are indicated at I and these are interwoven with the weft threads 2 in such a manner that two weft layers are formed. one above the other. The threads I, consisting of a binding substance, for example celluloseace tate, form an intermediate layer in the form of additional warps, which are completely concealed by the two weft layers. 7

In Figure 2 the threads forming the warp-are .again indicated t I and the weft threads of the two normal wei' layers are indicated at 2. The weft threads I, consisting of binding substance, are located between the two weft layers of the fabric and are concealed thereby. v

' Whenthe binding substance threads shown in Figures 1 and 2 are moistened with a solvent, they become adhesive and when heat and pressure is applied a permanent stiflening of the' individual weft and warp layers is effected, whereby an elastic, stiffened fabric is formed; The action of the solvent upon the threads of binding agent is generally so calculated that only partial dissolution thereof, sumcient for stiii'en-.

ing, takes place. However, in some cases it may be desirable to effect complete dissolution of so the threads. 1

In Figures 1- and 2 a fabric of comparatively simple structure is shown. If desired fabrics con- ]sisting of several layers of. warps andwefts may. also be stiffened by the employment of weft or warp threadsof binding substances and treat- Fi gure 3 shows an embodiment by way of example of a collar made of the improved textile fabric and comprising two parts. The upper or collar top part and the lower or collar band part 8 of the collar are cut in known manner of the improved fabric and thetwo parts 7 are interconnected along the seams 'I Around the edge 8 9. narrow strip 9 is placed and. sewn together with .the parts. The collar top I and the collar band 0 are hemmed as usual and the free edges l0 and. H are edged with narrow strips I2 and I3 respectively. when the collar is completed it is moistened with solvent and then stiffening is effected with the aid of a hot press.

While in Figure 3 the manufacture of a two part collar of the improved textile fabric has been explained in detail, it is to be understood that the multiple weave fabric according to the invention is also suitable for the manufacture of one piece collars. In'this case it is preferable to omit a few acetate threads during the weaving operation in the zone where the collar is to be folded and to substitute them, if desired, by cotton threads. After treatment with the solvent upon the completion of the collar and the subsequent heat and pressure treatment no stiffencollar top part 5 of the collar consists of. the new multiple weave material. As. in the collar of Figure 3, the free edge of the upper or collar top part is boundwith a narrow strip l2 secured by a seam I. The lower or band part Ga of the soluble adhesive substance, the warp threads of collar differs from the band 8 collar shown in Figure 3 in that it does not consist of a multiple weave material but is' made of three plies of fabric. The two outer plies I4 and i5 consist of ordinary textile fabric while the lining ply it consists of woven fabric composed of or containing cellulose acetate threads. The collar top and the band of'the collar are connected by a seam 1'. The lower edge of the collar top needs no binding and it is suficient to secure it with a seam 1". The width of the lining ply i6 is equal only to the finished width of the collar top, whereas in cutting out the outer plies l4 and i5, allowance must be made for the turned in edges.

The use of the improved textile fabric is not restricted to collars, it is eminently suitable for the manufacture of a great variety of articles of wearing apparel or parts thereof, such as cuffs, brims, turn ups, shirt fronts, particularly pique fronts for dress shirts, bathing suits, trimmings of ladies wear and so forth.

What we claim is:

l. A woven textile fabric consisting of a twoweft plane -fabric in which the wefts of each plane are separated from those of the other by stufier threads lying in an intermediate plane, said stnfier threads comprising an organically which fabric pass from face to face of the fabric and together with the weft cover the stufler threads, providing a fabric which can be stiffened by dispersion of the soluble adhesive substance by action of a solvent.

2. A woven textile fabric consisting of a twoweft plane fabric in which the wefts of each plane are separated from those of the other by a stufier warp comprising an organically soluble adhesive substance, the warp threads of which fabric pass from face to face of the fabric and together with the weft-cover the stuffer warp, providing a fabric which can be stiffened by dispersion of the soluble adhesive substance by action of a solvent.

3. A woven textile fabric consisting of a twoweft plane fabric in which the wefts of each plane are separated from those of the other by a vstuffer weft comprising an organically soluble adhesive substance, the warp threads of which fabric pass from face to face of the fabric and together with the weft cover the stufie'r weft, providing a fabric which can be stiffened by dispersion of the soluble adhesive substance by action of a solvent.

FRITZ HANFF. JULIUS REIMLANN. 

